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Common Landscaping Mistakes
1. When a plant is located too close to a fence, building, walk, or driveway it can cause
problems when it grows too large for the space. It can rub against the siding, destroy a fence,
or snag pedestrians unless it is pruned frequently (check mature plant size and your available
space before buying).
2. Overcrowded plantings grow together or sideways as they compete for sunlight so you can
never appreciate their natural form at maturity, (plants take several years to grow to mature
size so avoid planting too many).
3. Mixing plants with high and low water needs on the same automatic irrigation line will
result in unhealthy or dead plants.
4. Locating shade-loving plants in sunny locations can result in them being sunburnt and
dying.
5. Removing a tall tree, which had provided shade for shade-loving plants, will probably result
in their death.
6. Locating sun-loving plants in the shade can result in them failing to thrive.
7. Selecting plants that do not like our climate (zone 14 in the Western Garden book) can
cause the heartbreak of losing them to the first bad frost.
8. Planting invasive running bamboo can spread it 20 feet away in the neighbor’s yard.
9. Neglecting to prune an invasive type of vine or groundcover, such as ivy, regularly will result
in it covering all other plants in the yard then move into the neighboring yard.
10. Letting a vine with teeth grow up the house can ruin the siding and any masonry.
11. Letting ivy or other vines grow up a tree or shrub can kill it.
12. Laying concrete over a tree’s root zone can eventually kill it from lack of water.
13. Neglecting to deep-water birch trees weekly in the summer can cause them to become
stressed and diseased (birches need more water than most).
14. Neglecting to deep-water a tree, and watering it with the lawn schedule, can cause its
roots to grow along the surface of the yard and push up the pavement.
15. Locating fruit trees near sidewalks, front walkways, or driveways results in a nasty mess
(and unhappy neighbors) when the fruit drops.
16. Neglecting to prune out one of two main trunks when the tree produces a 2nd trunk
results in a "Y" shaped weaker tree, which is likely to break in a storm.
17. Improperly staking a new tree can result in an uprooted tree due to a weak root system.
18. Raising the soil-line around the base of an established tree can kill it after several years.
19. Planting a creeping fig (which grows quickly) on a common fence can cause the neighbor
a lot of maintenance (it can grow 40' in 4 years, if not pruned).
20. Planting a tree like liquidambar can result in expensive repair bills when its invasive root
system invades the sewer line (especially under the slab foundation).
21. Planting privet and mimosa trees will cause everyone extra weed pulling or create
undesirable trees because they produce thousands of seeds that spread and germinate
prolifically throughout the neighborhood.
22. Cutting off the top of a tree (called "topping") disfigures the tree, makes it grow with
unsightly stubs and odd watersprouts, and produces weak branches that can easily break.
1. When a plant is located too close to a fence, building, walk, or driveway it can cause
problems when it grows too large for the space. It can rub against the siding, destroy a fence,
or snag pedestrians unless it is pruned frequently (check mature plant size and your available
space before buying).
2. Overcrowded plantings grow together or sideways as they compete for sunlight so you can
never appreciate their natural form at maturity, (plants take several years to grow to mature
size so avoid planting too many).
3. Mixing plants with high and low water needs on the same automatic irrigation line will
result in unhealthy or dead plants.
4. Locating shade-loving plants in sunny locations can result in them being sunburnt and
dying.
5. Removing a tall tree, which had provided shade for shade-loving plants, will probably result
in their death.
6. Locating sun-loving plants in the shade can result in them failing to thrive.
7. Selecting plants that do not like our climate (zone 14 in the Western Garden book) can
cause the heartbreak of losing them to the first bad frost.
8. Planting invasive running bamboo can spread it 20 feet away in the neighbor’s yard.
9. Neglecting to prune an invasive type of vine or groundcover, such as ivy, regularly will result
in it covering all other plants in the yard then move into the neighboring yard.
10. Letting a vine with teeth grow up the house can ruin the siding and any masonry.
11. Letting ivy or other vines grow up a tree or shrub can kill it.
12. Laying concrete over a tree’s root zone can eventually kill it from lack of water.
13. Neglecting to deep-water birch trees weekly in the summer can cause them to become
stressed and diseased (birches need more water than most).
14. Neglecting to deep-water a tree, and watering it with the lawn schedule, can cause its
roots to grow along the surface of the yard and push up the pavement.
15. Locating fruit trees near sidewalks, front walkways, or driveways results in a nasty mess
(and unhappy neighbors) when the fruit drops.
16. Neglecting to prune out one of two main trunks when the tree produces a 2nd trunk
results in a "Y" shaped weaker tree, which is likely to break in a storm.
17. Improperly staking a new tree can result in an uprooted tree due to a weak root system.
18. Raising the soil-line around the base of an established tree can kill it after several years.
19. Planting a creeping fig (which grows quickly) on a common fence can cause the neighbor
a lot of maintenance (it can grow 40' in 4 years, if not pruned).
20. Planting a tree like liquidambar can result in expensive repair bills when its invasive root
system invades the sewer line (especially under the slab foundation).
21. Planting privet and mimosa trees will cause everyone extra weed pulling or create
undesirable trees because they produce thousands of seeds that spread and germinate
prolifically throughout the neighborhood.
22. Cutting off the top of a tree (called "topping") disfigures the tree, makes it grow with
unsightly stubs and odd watersprouts, and produces weak branches that can easily break.
Tree Trimming (916) 732-5854
"SMUD tree trimmers will visit, access the need for pruning trees away from power lines, and
perform the trimming."
Wood Chips (916) 732-5854
"Bring containers and a shovel and take away as many free wood chips as you can use for
mulch at home. Wood chips loads in pick-up trucks must be covered before driven onto the
highway."
"SMUD tree trimmers will visit, access the need for pruning trees away from power lines, and
perform the trimming."
Wood Chips (916) 732-5854
"Bring containers and a shovel and take away as many free wood chips as you can use for
mulch at home. Wood chips loads in pick-up trucks must be covered before driven onto the
highway."
Mow & Edge
Compost
Weed
Fertilize
Over-seed
Amend
De-thatch
- Never cut more than 1/3 of the grass height at a time. In other words, do not let the
grass grow taller than 4 inches. - Mow it no lower than 2 ½ to 3 inches for all lawns except Bermuda grass.
- For Bermuda grass, keep it mowed to 1-1 ½ inches and never let it grow to form flower
heads because it contaminates the whole neighborhood with its seeds. - Edge the grass around the sidewalk, driveway and walkways with an edging tool to
form a clean, straight line.
Compost
- For inexpensive compost, rake the grass clippings into the grass after mowing.
- Irrigate
- Water deeply and infrequently per City restrictions (odd house numbers on Tues,
Thurs. & Sat; even numbers on Wed., Fri., & Sun.). - Water early in the morning (before 10:00 a.m.).
- To prevent runoff, sprinkle 10-15 min. then repeat in an hour.
- Do not water during periods of heavy rain in the winter.
- If you find mossy areas instead of grass in your lawn, it indicates there is a problem
(probably too much water). Adjust your watering, dig up the moss and re-seed the area
or consult a lawn expert.
Weed
- Dig out crabgrass, Guackgrass and other weeds whenever they appear.
- To remove crabgrass in the lawn, use a fertilizer that has a pre-emergent in it. Apply it in
the middle of February. If you use this product, do not over-seed in the spring because
the seeds will not germinate. - For non-Bermuda grass lawns: once established in your lawn, it is difficult to remove
Bermuda grass. It is best to pull it out as soon as you see it. If it has established itself,
you will need to hire a person certified to apply an herbicide to get rid of it. - Try a weed-n-feed product to both fertilize and kill weeds including strawberries and
clover.
Fertilize
- Aerate with a special tool to loosen the soil before fertilizing.
- You can test the soil using a soil testing kit available at garden centers to help
determine which proportions of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium your lawn needs
from your fertilizer. - Fertilizers with a ratio of 15-15-15 (nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium) or a
controlled release 16-6-8 are good choices for our lawns. Follow instructions on the
package for timing and amounts. - The best time to fertilize is when the temperatures start to approach the 70's in the
spring. Avoid fertilizing in July, August and September because the grass needs to
spend its energy surviving the heat, not putting on new growth. If you want to fertilize in
the winter, use a commercial winterizing fertilizer. - Consider using organic fertilizers.
Over-seed
- Sow more grass seed to help keep out weeds and cover bare spots.
- Fall is the best time of year to over-seed a lawn. The second best time is in the spring.
- For our area, use tall fescue when over-seeding. However, if you have a Bermuda
grass lawn, over-seed with annual rye each fall to keep it green in the winter. - After over-seeding, you will need to keep the lawn moist until the rains come.
Amend
- Applying gypsum on top of the lawn helps break up the clay in the soil and improves
water penetration. You can find it at any nursery.
De-thatch
- Every few years, de-thatch your lawn in the fall to improve water penetration and reduce
runoff. De-thatching removes dead mats of grass that build up. When the dead mats
accumulate, they can smother the grass, blocking out the flow of air, water and
nutrients. In addition, it creates a hiding place for pests and diseases. Aerating the
lawn will also help keep thatch under control.
| Lawn Maintenance Revised: 9/16/2009 Tips and ideas for keeping your lawn to maximum appearance |
- Fall Landscaping & Gardening Tips
- (Information reprinted from Sac. Bee) Sept 2010
Take advantage of the fall weather and renew your landscaping/garden:
*Compost annuals and vegetables
*Cultivate and add compost for fall flowers
*Fertilize deciduous fruit trees
*Sow a new lawn or reseed bare spots - consider replacing lawn with perennials.
PERENNIALS - Let’s get Native! With our plants, that is.
Planting California perennials and shrubs saves water, cuts down work (no more mowing
and edging!) and helps wildlife, too. Birds, bees and beneficial insects flock to perennial
gardens, which boast a variety of flowers and seeds.
Because they are native to our climate, these plants adapt easily to homes here in the
Sacramento Valley. They like hot, dry summers and can deal with wet winters, too.
For a list of perennials, go to http://arboretum.ucdavis.edu/arboretum_all_stars.aspx.
NEED HELP? Help is available from our Architectural Committee members, who are
experienced in native landscaping and they are ready to assist you with advice about how you
can use native plants as an alternative to traditional lawns or shrubs. Remember that
homeowners must follow the architectural guidelines and the application process for
alterations and changes to landscaping.
| Driveway & Landscaping Tips |
CONCRETE DRIVEWAY, SIDEWALK OR PATIO?
To remove rust stains from concrete there are several methods to try. You can purchase
commercial rust stain removers from your local hardware store or you can try ordinary
household items to do the job.
Lemon juice, which contains acid, is a natural remedy for removing rust stains from concrete
and other hard surfaces. Pour or squeeze undiluted lemon juice on rust stains, and let it sit for
several minutes. If the stains are on the side of a concrete foundation, put lemon juice in a
spray bottle, and spray the rust-covered surface. Use a sturdy bristle brush to scrub the area,
and then rinse the lemon juice away along with the stain.
Another natural solution for rust removal is ordinary household vinegar. Apple cider vinegar
and white vinegar both contain acid. Use either one to aid in the removal of unsightly rust
stains. Either pour or spray undiluted vinegar on the stains, and allow it to set for several
minutes. Scrub the area with a sturdy bristle brush, and rinse the vinegar and stains away.
Remember that lemon juice and vinegar can damage plants, so it shouldn't be sprayed
around planting areas.
August 2010
To remove rust stains from concrete there are several methods to try. You can purchase
commercial rust stain removers from your local hardware store or you can try ordinary
household items to do the job.
Lemon juice, which contains acid, is a natural remedy for removing rust stains from concrete
and other hard surfaces. Pour or squeeze undiluted lemon juice on rust stains, and let it sit for
several minutes. If the stains are on the side of a concrete foundation, put lemon juice in a
spray bottle, and spray the rust-covered surface. Use a sturdy bristle brush to scrub the area,
and then rinse the lemon juice away along with the stain.
Another natural solution for rust removal is ordinary household vinegar. Apple cider vinegar
and white vinegar both contain acid. Use either one to aid in the removal of unsightly rust
stains. Either pour or spray undiluted vinegar on the stains, and allow it to set for several
minutes. Scrub the area with a sturdy bristle brush, and rinse the vinegar and stains away.
Remember that lemon juice and vinegar can damage plants, so it shouldn't be sprayed
around planting areas.
August 2010